What is Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring? What are the pros and cons of Luxury Vinyl Flooring (LVP & LVT)?

In this post, we’ll discuss what Luxury vinyl is, the good and the bad of luxury vinyl, the different forms/types of the product as well as the acronyms/abbreviations used in the industry (e.g. LVT, EVP, LVP, EVT).

Vinyl has come a long way since its original inception. There are plenty of different options that feel and look like real hardwood and stone.

What do all of the acronyms stand for?

LVP stands for Luxury Vinyl Plank, which are vinyl planks that look like hardwood planks. LVT stands for Luxury Vinyl Tile, which are vinyl planks or squares that look like tile or natural stone. They are individual pieces, much like tile or stone, and have the added benefit of being waterproof.

LVP/LVT comes in a variety of grades and forms. The innovation in both quality and durability has been evolving extremely fast yearly. There are more form and color options available than ever.

What is EVP?

EVP short for Engineered Vinyl Plank. It is a subset of Luxury Vinyl Flooring. EVP has an incredibly realistic hardwood look and feels and is very durable. It is waterproof and has a high-density core.

EVP – or Engineered vinyl plank, is a thicker form of the standard glue down vinyl. At an average of 8 mm thick, it’s fairly similar to an engineered hardwood or laminate flooring in thickness. Much like engineered flooring, it is constructed in layers. The top layer is vinyl, the center is a high-density core board and there is typically an attached back underlayment, such as cork for more cushioning. Like laminate, these floors are designed to click together for easy installation.

Engineered vinyl plank is similar in form and looks to an engineered hardwood and laminate flooring, but it is much more resilient. Another great benefit to EVP is that it is waterproof.

Engineered vinyl plank has is a great alternative to more expensive engineered hardwood flooring, that is more durable and attractive to cheaper looking vinyl and laminate. Both of these have an unfortunate tendency to curl over time.

What are the different forms of luxury vinyl flooring?

Years ago luxury vinyl was only available in a glue-down form. These materials could be glued directly to a concrete slab or a plywood sub-floor. They are fairly thin so when glued directly to a concrete slab, they just lay on top of it without providing any sort of cushioning. It’s essentially as if you are walking on top of a concrete slab, so it can be pretty hard and cold.

Because vinyl is thin, imperfections in the sub-floor can show through, it’s very important that you prep the floor before installing vinyl.

Eventually, a variation of vinyl was created that was floating. Floating means that the floor covering isn’t glued or attached to the sub-floor. This makes it much easier to install without hiring a professional and to replace or repair the floor at a later date.

Big box stores carry some varieties of these materials. These offerings tend to be lower quality and much less durable than you would find from a vendor that specializes in flooring. These have a habit of curing over time and delaminating in areas that see more moisture, or where the floor isn’t even. This could cause the pieces to not line up properly, and in more trafficked areas could be tripping hazards.

What are the advantages of EVP?

• Waterproof– Engineered luxury vinyl is a great choice for areas with a lot of moisture such as bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms
• Appearance– Luxury vinyl looks great, specially engineered vinyl plank. Many people mistake it for hardwood
• Price– On average EVP/LVP is less expensive than hardwood or tile
• Provides more insulation and soundproofing than glue down laminates and vinyl
• Can be installed on top of virtually any surface that is flat. Luxury vinyl can go on top of plywood, tile, or concrete
• Easy to install nothing more really needs to be said about that

What are the downsides to Engineered Vinyl Planks?

• It doesn’t improve the value of your home in the same way that hardwood or tile does. However, it’s certainly a preferable and longer-lasting option vs laminate flooring or your basic cheap vinyl
• It can scratch, especially with heavy objects such as appliances. It’s more scratch-resistant than hardwood and a bit less resistant than laminate. You can replace individual pieces if they get scratched, so it’s handy to have an extra box or two for repairs
• May require a lot of floor prep if your floor is uneven or wavy. If your floor is very uneven or wavy, Engineered vinyl planks (which are rigid) will not line up very well, and they can bounce (just as any floating floor can). So, if your floors are wavy or uneven, you will probably want to either add self-leveling, mix which can be a bit costly, or consider a glue-down installation

When does it make sense to do a floating engineered vinyl plank rather than a glue-down luxury vinyl?

• When your floors are flat and level, you can use whichever type of vinyl (or another flooring you want). In these circumstances, most customers prefer an engineered vinyl plank as it looks and feels nicer. It often costs a bit less, too
• When you want a floor that is waterproof and moisture resistant. Engineered vinyl plank is perfect for this, and a way better option vs laminate (or engineered hardwood) that can become ruined just from moisture, let alone a floor or water leak
• When you’re looking for more stylish colors. Because the engineered vinyl planks are newer and more popular, they are rapidly expanding their lines and color selection. It’s often easier to find more options in the more recent hot trends for grays, weathered woods and farmhouse looks in the engineered planks. There are generally fewer options in the glue-down versions

Summary

Luxury Vinyl Planks are a quickly growing segment in the marketplace, and the Engineered Vinyl Planks are the most quickly expanding sub-segment. They provide a gorgeous real and contemporary look, and they are very durable and versatile. It is a huge benefit that they are waterproof, so they are great for water or moisture-prone areas such as kitchens and bathrooms.

Luxury vinyl tends to hold up much better than laminate and engineered hardwood and they can be installed on top of virtually any type of surface.

When shopping for carpet, a lot of people naturally focus on carpet fiber and often assume that nylon is always better than polyester.  However, carpet fiber is only one of the factors that you need to consider.   Equally important are carpet construction factors like density, filament type and twist level.  All of these elements together determine how a carpet will perform and what it will cost.  When shopping for carpet, it helps to have a general understanding of these factors in order to make the best decision.  In this week’s post, we’ll look the difference between fibers and next week we’ll talk about carpet construction.

Carpet Fiber: Carpet’s Basic Ingredient 

The four basic fibers used in carpet today are nylon, polypropylene (Olefin), polyester and wool.  Since synthetic fibers make up 99% of the fiber in the US carpet industry, we’ll focus on them.   Each type of fiber has its strengths and weaknesses which determine how it can be used and constructed.  Keep in mind there is no perfect fiber and carpet is a fabric that is subjected to incredible abuse – foot traffic, accidental spills and environmental contaminants.

Nylon

Durable, Resilient & Versatile

Nylon is more expensive than other synthetic carpet fibers and is the most commonly used carpet fiber today. Nylon is the most versatile of all fibers, providing flexibility in creating a variety of carpet styles – from sumptuous plush to fashion-forward patterns to low-maintenance loop (Berber).  Its strengths include good resiliency, good yarn memory to hold twist, good stain resistance with stain treatment applied, good soil hiding ability, and good abrasion resistance. It is the strongest fiber, making it an excellent choice for heavy traffic areas, active households or commercial facilities.

Be aware that there can be considerable cost differences even between two similar-looking nylon products. Nylon, for example, may be branded or unbranded and, as we mentioned, carpet construction greatly influences value, price and performance. You really can’t judge a carpet by appearance or fiber weight alone. As an example, Shaw’s Anso nylon is a branded, premium nylon and comes with some of the strongest warranties in the industry, including Lifetime Stain and Soil Resistance (even pet urine stains!).  Anso nylon carpets cost more, but you’re getting a premium nylon with excellent construction properties and the warranties reflect this.  What you care about is that your carpet will look newer longer.

If you are looking for value goods, unbranded nylons offer a considerable benefit for the money. These products may have fewer features and less robust warranties, but you’ll still get the inherent benefits of nylon (durability and resiliency) at a lower price.

Polypropylene (Olefin)

Color Fast, Naturally Stain Resistant, Economical

Olefin is one of the most colorfast fibers on the market.  Unlike the other fiber types, polypropylene will not absorb water and must be solution dyed to impart color.  Solution dyeing is a pigmentation process in which color is actually built into the fiber when it is formed, thereby becoming an inherent part of the fiber.  The color will not fade, even when exposed to intense sunlight, bleaches, or other harsh chemicals.  However, since it is not as resilient as other fibers, polypropylene is better suited to low-profile loop (Berber) carpets in which there is less need for superior resiliency.   The one exception to this is a type of olefin called “Comfortouch” by Shaw.  This new fiber is softer to the feel because it is scoured three times during production. Then the fiber is treated with Shaw’s R2X, a patented Stain and Soil inhibitor for enhanced protection against spills and tracked-in dirt. The result is a fiber that feels like cotton, resists soil and stains, and wears better than other olefin carpet.

Olefin carpets work well anywhere you need fade and stain resistance – in rooms with strong sunlight, indoor/outdoor rooms, kitchens, children’s bedrooms & playrooms, and basements.

Polyester

Exceptionally Stain & Fade-Resistant, Soft, & Budget-Friendly

If you need stain-resistance, this is your carpet!  Just to give you an example, we know a customer who spilled hair dye on her 6 month old polyester carpet. Although hair dye is on the list of stains that are NOT warranted, this customer got the stain out with laundry detergent and water. Now that’s impressive!

While not as inherently resilient as nylon, polyester carpets will perform well if constructed well.  So choose a polyester carpet with a higher pile and medium-high density to ensure maximum appearance retention and long-term wear.  You can also refer to the durability ratings on the back of carpet samples to help you assess how a carpet will stand up to traffic.

If you’ve never considered polyester carpeting before, you might want to look at Shaw’s New ClearTouch carpets which are made of a new type of polyester called PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate).  This new polyester “ups the ante” in terms of performance.  ClearTouch carpets feature:

• exceptional softness
• natural and permanent stain resistance, including pet urine stains
• improved strength and better abrasion resistance
• excellent appearance retention and long-term wear
• 25% recycled content from recycled soda and water bottles

The new PET polyester carpets pack in a lot of performance for the money! They are a great choice for children’s bedrooms & playrooms as well as for people who don’t want to put a lot money into their carpet.  We highly recommend you choose a PET polyester with a higher pile and medium-high density to ensure maximum appearance retention and long-term wear.

Hiring a professional carpet installer is a very important step when adding carpeting to your home

Can you do it on your own? Sure. If you have the proper tools and know-how.

Is it worth the headache of trying? Not really.

That being said, here is a simplistic rundown of the process.

1. Determine the area of the Room

First, measure the longest walls in your room. Next, multiply the length and width of your walls, and divide by 9 to determine the square yardage. It’s always best to add 10% to allow for any irregularities, errors, waste, and pattern matching.

2. Clean the Sub-floor

You want the floor surface to be smooth and clean. Scrape any paint or joint compound that may be on the floor and sweep and vacuum the floor thoroughly.

3. Remove the Doors

If you can, remove the doors from the rooms you are carpeting so you won’t have to work around them.

4. Install the Tack Strips

Cut the tack strips to size with a strip cutter or heavy snips. Nail the strips a 1/2 inch from the wall. Do not install tack strips across thresholds for doorways; the tacks on the strips are very sharp and could tear through the carpet and hurt your feet. Tack strips come in a variety of heights, thicknesses, and widths. You want to make sure you are using the correct size for the pile of your carpet. If you are installing carpet over a concrete sub-floor, use masonry tacks or epoxy adhesive to hold the tack strips in place.

5. Install the Carpet Pad

Layout the carpet pad in the opposite direction you plan to install the carpet and staple it near the tack strips with a staple hammer.

6. Staple Any Pad Seams

Staple the seam of the pad, alternating staples so that they are not right next to one another. Stretch the padding so that the pieces are joined tightly together.

7. Trim the Pad

Locate the tack strip by feeling through the padding, then use a utility knife to cut away the padding along the interior edge of the strip so that all tacks are exposed.

8. Notch Corners for Trimming

Measure the room at its longest point, then add 3″ to the measurement. Take the carpet outside, and cut it slightly on both sides at the measured length. The carpet may be easier to handle in a larger space like outdoors. If possible, have someone help you.

9. Trim the Carpet to Size

Roll the carpet with the back facing outward until the cut areas show. Next, run a chalk line from cut to cut. Cut the back of the carpet along the chalk line, roll up the carpet, and take it back inside.

10.Trim the Excess Carpet

Roll out the carpet into the room while keeping it as straight as possible. Cutaway any excess carpet, but leave 3″ of extra carpet next to the walls. Lay out any additional carpet needed to fill the room.

11. Glue the Seams Together

You’ll need to create a seam where the carpet edges join. These edges must be straight. Make sure to check the edges: don’t assume that a factory edge is straight. Place a piece of seaming tape under the seam, adhesive side up. Heat the seaming iron to the temperature recommended by the tape manufacturer, and rest it directly on the tape for 15 to 30 seconds. Then carefully slide the iron along with the tape, and press the seam into the melted glue behind the iron. Place heavy objects on the seam after the pieces are joined, to ensure they will hold it in place. Seams should run parallel to the room’s main light source. And make sure the pile of both pieces runs in the same direction.

12. Trim Around the Obstacles

Dry-fit the carpet, butting one end against a wall. Use a carpet knife to trim the carpet to fit around obstacles like pillars, floor vents, and outlets.

13. Attach the First Edge of the Carpet

Using a knee kicker, attach the carpet to the tackless strips on one end of the room. Place the knee kicker against the carpet about 3″ away from the wall, and forcefully strike the padded end to stretch the carpet over the tackless strips.

14. Trim the Excess from the Edges

You’ll next need to trim the excess carpet with a wall trimmer, which rests against the wall and provides a straight cut. Using a stair tool to press the cut edges underneath the baseboard trim.

15. Stretch the Carpet

Use the power stretcher to attach the strips on the other side of the room. For corners and alcoves where the power stretcher can’t easily reach, use a knee kicker and/or stair tool.

16. Use the Binder Bar

In this step, you’ll need to nail a binder bar to any areas where the carpet ends without abutting a wall such as a threshold. Stretch the carpet with the knee kicker and link to the hooks in the binder bar. Next, use a wooden block or scrap piece of lumber to close the binder bar onto the edge of the carpet.

17. Finish Trimming the Carpet

When all the carpet is in place, cut out any necessary openings. Attach molding around the room if desired.

That’s a lot of steps to complete for even the most determined DIYer.

But… Before all of that happens, you still have to pick out the carpet you like.

Shaw has quite a broad selection of carpets to include their Truaccents collection. You can also find some great selections at Dreamweaver.

Be sure to check out our website for great offers, or better yet, come to our showroom at 8643 W Kelton Ln Suite 105 in Peoria!

Have you ever seen discolored grout after you finished your tile installation? That discoloration may be something called “efflorescence.” Efflorescence is a whitish crystalline or powdery deposit on grout lines and tile surfaces that can mar even the best looking grout-tile combinations. It will turn grout from an accent to eyesore. Luckily, grout efflorescence can be removed, and even prevented with proper tile installation technique.

How to prevent efflorescence
Grout contains Portland cement. Efflorescence can occur in any Portland cement product. It occurs when water-soluble minerals dissolve and migrate to the installation surface.  You can interrupt this process and help prevent efflorescence. 

1. Keep Out Moisture: Waterproof membranes installed close to the installation surface can help prevent grout efflorescence. Tile can be bonded directly to the membrane, which will work to deflect water from the installation and prevent its absorption into the substrate. Products like these are especially important in wet areas like showers, spas, pools, hot tubs and fountains. It is always best to confirm that your membrane, tile, mortar and grout are compatible, and make sure your installation is capped and has the correct flashing as necessary.

Also consider using a penetrating sealer on your installation. Penetrating sealers can form a water-resistant shield over your installation without changing its appearance. Just be sure the grout is cured, prior to sealing the installation.

2. Choose the Right Products:  Look for high performance tile setting products with lower absorption rates.  It should be noted that even the best quality mortars require proper coverage. Incomplete coverage can allow water to enter the system, ultimately leading to efflorescence.

Some grouts are specifically designed to deliver color consistency and reduce the risk of efflorescence. Look for grout that exceeds ANSI A118.7 when efflorescence is a concern.

Removing Efflorescence
If you think you see efflorescence, there are a few simple tests that can confirm your suspicions. Efflorescence will turn into a powder when pinched between fingers and will dissolve in water. If you positively identify efflorescence, you can take the following steps to remove it:

1. Dry Brush: If you notice the efflorescence soon after it appears, you may be able to remove it simply by scrubbing the grout gently with a stiff nylon brush.

2. Use a Mild Acid: If water alone does not do the trick, try using a mild acid to remove efflorescence. Products with sulfamic or phosphoric acid can be used effectively, but stronger acids can burn fixtures and tile. Be absolutely sure that when using an acid to dilute it.  A 1 part acid to 10 part water for example. If you do not have an acidic cleaner on hand, you can create your own by mixing 1 part vinegar with 1 part water. Be sure the grout has cured 10 days and wear gloves when treating efflorescence with an acid. Apply it with a sponge or brush. If your problem is truly efflorescence, it should react to the acid immediately.

 

Make sure you rinse the installation surface with clean water once grout efflorescence removal is complete, and use acid cleaners sparingly. Acidic cleaners should not be used on marble, limestone and travertine. Check with manufacturer of your tile to make sure an acidic cleaner will not alter your installation’s appearance.

Tile repairs can be fun ….not really.

We had recently finished installing some 20×20 squares in a house in Peoria.  Within 2 days, the customer had called that another contractor (electrician?) had done some damage.

By damage, I mean apparently dropped a 10lb sledge hammer from the top of an 8 foot ladder, and busted 4 different tiles.  How does this happen?  Beats me.

All I know is cutting away grout with a utility knife, smashing what parts of the tile weren’t already broken by the above magic flying sledge hammer, and scraping away thinset is not fun.  Nor is fun to discover that 3 of the 4 tiles had been placed over flex-guard which is an absolute joy to try and scrape up.

Anyway, complaining side, tiles were fixed, customer was happy, all is well in the tileverse.